Sean McGirr made his debut as the creative director of Alexander McQueen with the Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, following Sarah Burton’s 13-year tenure. The show, held at the SEGRO Centre Paris Les Gobelins, garnered diverse reactions from fashion enthusiasts, with opinions ranging from praise to criticism.
McGirr’s collection showcased an array of concepts, featuring men’s leather trenches, face-covering fedoras, knits, faux fur tops, animal print dresses, pinstripe suits, skinny-leg denim, hoof-shaped boots, and sequined gowns. The designs, characterized by a rough opulence and elongated silhouette, reflected McGirr’s inspiration from Alexander McQueen’s 1995 spring collection, The Birds, and ’90s fashion icons like Kate Moss and Amy Winehouse.
The 35-year-old designer, known for his work with JW Anderson and Dries Van Noten, aimed to capture the essence of damaged opulence and rough glamour, drawing inspiration from singular characters with strong personalities.
While some appreciated McGirr’s fresh approach and the infusion of new energy into the brand, others expressed disappointment, feeling that the collection deviated too far from McQueen’s established aesthetic. Critics noted a lack of continuity and coherence, with some describing the designs as a watered-down version of McQueen’s originals.
Online commentary reflected a divided sentiment, with some longing for Sarah Burton’s return and lamenting the perceived absence of McQueen’s dark soul. However, others praised McGirr’s creativity and commercial approach, viewing it as a promising start.
Overall, McGirr’s debut collection sparked spirited debate within the fashion community, highlighting the challenge of balancing innovation with respect for a brand’s legacy.